Fingerboard extension top crack splint :: 2007 Pavan TP-30 [3.9 lbs]

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Fingerboard extension top crack splint :: 2007 Pavan TP-30 [3.9 lbs]

Fingerboard extension top crack splint :: 2007 Pavan TP-30 [3.9 lbs]

This classical has a nasty crack in the top that runs along the bass side of the fingerboard clean into the sound hole.  The crack had loosened the fingerboard brace so that was addressed first.  Two cleats were then fit and glued to support the break (one along the fingerboard, one just inside the sound hole).  This crack was far too open to just glue up (even with humidifying), so a thin spruce splint was fit, glued and trimmed into the crack with a minor color touch up to better match the top.

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Bridge re-glue :: Bedell TB-28-G

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Bridge re-glue :: Bedell TB-28-G

Bridge re-glue :: Bedell TB-28-G

This bridge was lifting so it was removed, refit and re-glued.  Before re-gluing, the area around the bridge was wet sanded and buffed to remove some super glue remnants from a previous repair attempt.  Next up will be finishing up a back crack repair (coming off the corner of the neck block) and it should be ready to head back out.

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Broken truss rod repair :: 1960's Silvertone 1488 Silhouette

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Broken truss rod repair :: 1960's Silvertone 1488 Silhouette

Broken truss rod repair :: 1960's Silvertone 1488 Silhouette

While attempting to correct the excessive relief in this neck I was surprised to find that the truss rod nut was missing.  My guess is that it was overtightened and snapped off a portion of the threads at some point.  Upon researching I was pleased to find that Frank Ford over at Frets.com (and Gryphon of course) had made a post about a Harmony Sovereign with an identical removable truss rod.  I cut away enough material around the washer collar (pictured resting on the fingerboard above) to get enough grab with my pliers.  Once the collar was removed, I used hemostats to pull the rod free from the neck.  The truss rod was set quite far into the neck, leading me to believe that a portion of the threaded rod was in fact missing.  I'll need to source a new nut, shorten the upper bar and extend the threads on the lower bar before reinstalling.

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Cheap guitars don't skimp on the glue :: Crestline CIT-105 [3.3 lbs]

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Cheap guitars don't skimp on the glue :: Crestline CIT-105 [3.3 lbs]

Cheap guitars don't skimp on the glue :: Crestline CIT-105 [3.3 lbs]

Normally I turn away extremely poor quality guitars as they always need a ton of work and usually don't come out that great in the end.  It's not about the money, it's about helping clients make informed decisions that they will ultimately be happy that they made.  This Crestline belongs to a shop neighbor who got it for free.  I told him the list of things wrong with it (cracked/lifting plastic bridge, distorted top, seized tuners, horrible frets/lumpy fingerboard, etc.) and that it frankly wasn't worth putting any money into (and that he should put the repair costs towards a better instrument).  After I felt bad for practically shitting all over his new guitar, I agreed to at least string it up for him but with the understanding that I would not touch anything else.

And "anything else" included the loose back brace shown above ... though technically, I did have to fish it out of the sound hole ... look at the insane amount of glue squeeze out - yikes!

Also note the screws holding down the pick guard.  On an acoustic guitar.  Jeeze.

 

 

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Loose neck joint :: Lyon & Healy bowl back mandolin

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Loose neck joint :: Lyon & Healy bowl back mandolin

Loose neck joint :: Lyon & Healy bowl back mandolin

The neck on this old Washburn mandolin was coming loose from the body so the two were separated and the fit will be tightened and re-glued.  I'm guessing this is around 100 years old - the finish has an awesome patina.

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