Loose binding :: 2012 Martin Custom D [4.1 lbs]
This relatively new Martin had loose binding pulling free from the waist on both sides. The binding was reglued and taped up, along with some minor finish touchups (flat / matte finish).
Chubbuck Guitars / Kevin Chubbuck, making & repairing guitars in an old building just north of Boston, Massachusetts.
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finish repair
Loose binding :: 2012 Martin Custom D [4.1 lbs]
This relatively new Martin had loose binding pulling free from the waist on both sides. The binding was reglued and taped up, along with some minor finish touchups (flat / matte finish).
Dried out top crack & bridge re-glue :: 1993 Martin 000-16 [4.1 lbs]
Low humidity caused a top crack that ran from the low E bridge pin to the tail. The bridge was also beginning to lift, so it was removed and the top crack repaired. Finally the bridge was refit and glued with hide glue.
Fraulini Angelica [4.1 lbs] :: top crack repair.
This guitar has a top center crack caused by low humidity and I've been battling with it for most of the summer. The top was dried to the point of concavity (lower in the center than the edges). Normally acoustic guitar tops have an arch or are at least flat. I have had good luck in the past by humidifying guitars to close small cracks before gluing and cleating them. This crack repair however keeps wanting to pull itself apart, even in my climate controlled shop. I've gone through two iterations of structural / finish repairs and both times tiny checks developed in parts of the repair. Having to wait 3-4 weeks for the finish repairs to cure before rubbing and buffing only to find unsatisfactory results was frustrating. The repairs didn't look terrible, but I knew it could be better.
Cutting and fitting a slice of spruce into the crack helped relieve the stress on the top. One last round of finish repairs and at long last this great guitar is back in it's owner's hands.
Previous photo of fitting the splint here.
And photo of gluing in the splint here.
Top crack :: to splint or not to splint?
This guitar has a top center crack caused by low humidity and I've been battling with it for most of the summer. The top was dried to the point of concavity (lower in the center than the edges). Normally acoustic guitar tops have an arch or are at least flat. I have had good luck in the past by humidifying guitars to close small cracks before gluing and cleating them. This crack repair however keeps wanting to pull itself apart, even in my climate controlled shop. I've gone through two iterations of structural / finish repairs and both times tiny checks developed in parts of the repair. Having to wait 3-4 weeks for the finish repairs to cure before rubbing and buffing only to find unsatisfactory results was frustrating. The repairs didn't look terrible, but I knew it could be better.
So I decided that this crack needed to be cut open and the top allowed to work out it's internal stresses. After the crack was reopened, I fit a splint that will be glued in, scraped flush and the area's finish repaired (again).
This guitar's crack appeared borderline at first but I wanted to try closing the crack before using the splint method. Thankfully the owner has been extremely patient, but this will be best for the guitar in the long run.